12 Flower Seeds to Start in January That Give You Earlier Blooms and a Fuller Garden

It’s about this time of year that every gardener gets what I refer to as “the green itch.” The holidays have come and gone. Things have gone abruptly quiet, and spring is still quite a way off. It’s when we start daydreaming of cascading hanging baskets, towering foxgloves, and the smell of damp potting soil.

That is until we look out the window and remember that it’s still very much winter.

If the “green itch” gets to be too persistent, don’t worry; there are plenty of flowers you can sow early in the year. In fact, it’s probably better if you do get growing in January. There are a lot of spectacular, slow-growing blooms that absolutely require this head start to ensure a successful season, especially if you want to save money by not buying expensive mature plants later at the nursery.

Many of your favorite garden showstoppers can—and should—be started indoors right now. Here are 12 flower seeds you can sow right now to scratch that green itch and guarantee the most glorious garden on the block this year.

1. Petunia (Petunia × hybrida)

If you want those massive baskets of color hanging on your porch by May, you really have to start petunias in January because they are incredibly slow growers at the beginning. I used to buy starts at the nursery, but once I realized how many cool colors I was missing out on, I switched to seeds, though you should be warned that the seeds are dust-like and you can barely see them.

Because the seeds are so tiny and fragile, I handle them with care by pouring the packet onto a white piece of paper so I don’t lose them, and the golden rule here is do not bury them because Petunia seeds need light to wake up. I fill my seed trays with a fine starting mix, water it first so it settles, and then just press the seeds gently onto the top of the soil, placing the tray on a heat mat to keep them around 70°F to 75°F so they sprout in about a week.

Petunias are technically tender perennials in Zones 9 through 11, meaning they might survive the winter there, but for most of us in colder zones like 3 through 8, we grow them as annuals that love the sun or a little afternoon shade in hot climates. I am obsessed with the Wave series because they don’t need deadheading, which saves me so much time, and specifically the Shock Wave petunias are great for their tons of small blooms, while for a classic look I also love Daddy Blue for those amazing dark veins that really pop in a container.

2. Verbena (Verbena species)

Verbena is another one of those plants that I always make sure to start in January because, honestly, they can be a bit stubborn and slow to get going, so giving them that extra time indoors makes a huge difference in how much they bloom this summer.

Unlike petunias, verbena seeds actually prefer darkness to germinate, so I always make sure to cover them with a light dusting of soil or vermiculite to keep the light out, and I’ve learned that patience is absolutely key since they are known for irregular germination and won’t all sprout at the exact same time.

They really appreciate a warm start, so I keep my trays on a heat mat until I see the green shoots, which can sometimes take up to three or four weeks, so don’t give up on them too early. While they are hardy perennials in Zones 7 through 10 and can come back year after year in those warmer climates, most of us in colder areas treat them as annuals that add amazing texture to the garden.

My absolute favorite has to be Verbena bonariensis because it shoots up tall on thin stems that seem to float purple clouds above other flowers, but for hanging baskets, I stick with the ‘Quartz’ series because they stay compact and bloom non-stop until the first frost.

3. Lobelia (Lobelia erinus)

You generally can’t find a truer blue in the garden than Lobelia, but to get those cascading sapphire clouds ready for spring, you have to accept that they are agonizingly slow in the seedling stage, which is why I never wait past January to sow them.

It took me a few tries to get it right because the seeds are basically dust, so I learned the hard way that you simply press them into the soil surface without covering them since they need light to wake up, and bottom watering is a must so you don’t wash them away.

They are technically tender perennials only in tropical Zones 10 and 11, so I treat them as cool-weather annuals that act as the perfect filler in my containers until the high heat of summer hits. I have a soft spot for the ‘Crystal Palace’ variety because its dark, bronzy foliage makes that blue color pop, but for my window boxes, the trailing ‘Regatta’ series is unbeatable for that spilling-over effect.

4. Geranium (Pelargonium)

It used to cost me a small fortune to fill my pots with Geraniums every spring, so starting them from seed in January has become my favorite money-saving hack. These seeds are actually decent sized, which is a relief, and I plant them with a light covering of soil because they don’t need light to trigger germination like some other flowers do.

The biggest lesson I’ve learned is to hold back on the water; I keep them warm to get them started, but I always let the soil dry out a little between waterings because soggy soil kills them faster than anything.

They are only winter-hardy in tropical Zones 10 and 11, so for most of us, they are summer annuals, though you can bring them inside before the frost hits. My go-to variety is the ‘Multibloom’ series because they start flowering really early on small plants, but I also love ‘Pinto Premium’ for those huge, classic flower heads that look great in window boxes.

5. Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)

You might think of Snapdragons as common bedding plants, but growing them from seed lets you grow the massive, vase-worthy types that you can’t buy in flats at the store.

In milder climates like Zones 7 through 10, you can often get away with direct sowing these in late autumn for a super early spring show, but in colder zones, you absolutely need to start them indoors in January because they take a long time to mature before the last frost.

I treat them gently, pressing the tiny seeds onto the soil surface since they need light to sprout, and the most painful but necessary step I’ve learned is to pinch off the top inch of the seedling once it has a few leaves; it hurts to do it, but it forces the plant to branch out into a huge bush of blooms.

I am a huge fan of the ‘Madame Butterfly’ variety because the double blooms are so ruffly they look fancy enough for a wedding bouquet, unlike the simpler ones I grew as a kid.

6. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

There is nothing quite like the scent of Sweet Peas, and since they absolutely detest hot weather, I always start them in January to ensure I get a good show of blooms before the summer heat shuts them down.

These seeds are tough little guys with a hard outer shell, so I have a ritual where I soak them in warm water overnight until they swell up, which really seems to speed up germination. Unlike the tiny seeds that need light, these want to be planted about an inch deep, and because they grow massive, long roots very quickly, I avoid standard pots and use tall “root trainers” or even empty cardboard toilet paper tubes so their roots have plenty of room to grow straight down without getting tangled.

They grow as annuals in all zones but really thrive in cooler climates, and while they can handle a light frost, they will fizzle out once temperatures stay consistently above 80°F.

I am completely devoted to the old-fashioned ‘Cupani’ variety because the honey-orange scent is stronger than any modern hybrid I’ve tried, but for cut flowers with long stems, the ‘Spencer’ mixes are my runner-up choice for bringing big bouquets indoors.

7. Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Many people assume you have to wait a full year to see Coneflowers bloom, but I’ve found that if I start them indoors right in January, I can actually trick them into flowering by the end of that very first summer.

I like to pop the seed packet in the fridge for a week or two before planting to simulate winter, and then I sow them shallowly—barely covering them—because they seem to wake up faster with a little light. They are incredibly tough perennials hardy in Zones 3 through 9, which means once you get them established, they come back reliably every single year.

I am personally a huge fan of the ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ mix because you get a surprise combination of sunset oranges, reds, and yellows from a single packet, but for that classic, sturdy purple flower that attracts all the bees, ‘Magnus’ is the one I plant most often.

8. Lisianthus (Eustoma grandiflorum)

I have to be honest with you: Lisianthus is a test of patience, and if you don’t start them in January, you probably won’t get flowers before the first frost arrives because they grow agonizingly slow as seedlings.

The seeds are microscopic, so I always buy the “pelleted” kind which makes them easier to handle, and I press them firmly onto the soil surface without covering them because they absolutely require light to germinate.

They will sit there looking like tiny green specks for months, so don’t panic; just keep them under lights and avoid overwatering. While they can survive as short-lived perennials in warm Zones 8 through 10, I grow them strictly as annuals for my cutting garden because they last for two weeks in a vase. My absolute favorite is the ‘Voyage’ series because the blooms are so ruffled and full that my neighbors often mistake them for roses.

9. Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)

I think Iceland Poppies are the most beautiful cool-weather flowers you can grow, but timing is everything because they sizzle out once the heat arrives.

If you live in warmer regions like Zones 8 through 10, you actually missed your best window—you ideally want to direct sow these outside in the fall—but for us gardeners in Zones 3 through 7, January is the absolute deadline to start them indoors so they are big enough to bloom during the cool spring days.

I cannot stress enough how much these plants hate having their roots touched, so I only ever plant the seeds into peat or paper pots that can go straight into the ground later to avoid transplant shock. The seeds need light, so I leave them uncovered on the soil surface, and I personally stick with the ‘Champagne Bubbles’ mix because the colors are so vibrant and citrusy compared to the wilder types.

10. Pansy (Viola × wittrockiana)

Pansies are the toughest little flowers in the garden, but your planting schedule depends entirely on your geography; if you live in mild climates like Zones 7 through 10, you likely planted these in the fall for winter color, but for those of us in cold Zones 3 through 6, January is the time to start them indoors so they are big enough to plant out as soon as the snow melts.

Unlike many other flower seeds that crave light, pansies actually prefer total darkness to germinate, so I always make sure to cover the seeds completely with a layer of soil and I even cover the tray with a piece of cardboard until I see the first green sprouts.

They are technically short-lived perennials, but they tend to get leggy and ugly once the summer heat hits, so I treat them as cool-season annuals and pull them out in June. My personal favorite is the ‘Matrix’ series because the stems are thick and don’t flop over in the heavy spring rains, but if I want a hanging basket, the ‘Cool Wave’ pansies trail beautifully and seem to bounce back from freezing nights better than anything else.

11. Begonia (Begonia)

I have to be honest and say that growing Begonias from seed is a test of patience, but I start them in January because they can take nearly five months to reach flowering size, meaning if you wait any longer, you’ll be waiting until August for blooms.

These are strictly tropical plants, hardy only in Zones 9 through 11, so for everyone else, they are annuals that absolutely must be started indoors under lights; you can’t really direct sow them outside in the garden because the seedlings are just too fragile to survive real weather.

The seeds are like fine dust, so I mix them with a little white sand to help me see where I am sprinkling them, and I press them onto the surface of the soil without covering them because they need light to wake up. I used to buy expensive tubers, but growing the ‘Dragon Wing’ series from seed is so much cheaper and they grow into massive plants that handle the heat better than any other begonia I’ve tried, though I also love the ‘Nonstop’ series for those huge, rose-like flowers that brighten up my shady corners.

12. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

Black-eyed Susans are a staple in my garden because they are tough, reliable, and act as a magnet for bees and butterflies, but I always start them in January to ensure I get those cheerful golden blooms in the very first year.

While they are hardy perennials in Zones 3 through 9, they can be a bit slow to establish, so giving them a head start indoors helps them develop a strong root system before they go out into the summer heat.

The seeds need light to germinate, so I simply sprinkle them onto the surface of my potting mix and press them down gently—do not cover them with soil—and then I place the tray in a warm spot until they sprout, which usually takes about two weeks.

I am a huge fan of the classic ‘Goldsturm’ variety because it produces masses of blooms that stand up to wind and rain, but for a unique twist, I also grow ‘Cherry Brandy’ which has stunning deep red petals that look incredible in late-summer bouquets.