Miss May, Miss Out—10 Perennials That Are Almost Too Easy to Propagate from Cuttings Right Now

Every May I catch myself looking around the garden thinking, this is the moment I should be taking cuttings—and most years, I’m a little late to my own advice. Because right now, everything is in that perfect in-between stage: not too soft and floppy, not tough and woody either. Just right. The kind of growth that roots quickly, settles in fast, and actually turns into strong plants instead of sulking for weeks.

What’s frustrating is how easy it is to miss this window. Give it a few more weeks and the heat creeps in, stems start to harden, and suddenly the same plants that would’ve rooted in days now take forever—or fail altogether. Meanwhile, garden centres are full of the exact same plants you already have, just waiting for you to buy them again.

But if you catch things now, it feels a bit like getting away with something. A few snips here and there, a tray of cuttings tucked in a shady corner, and before you know it you’ve got new plants coming along for free—ready to fill gaps, bulk out borders, or swap with someone else.

Not every perennial is worth the effort, though. Some are slow, fussy, or just not suited to this method. The ones below are different—they root readily in May, grow on without drama, and actually reward you for bothering. If you’re going to take cuttings this month, these are the ones that make it count.

1: Phlox (Border Phlox)

Phlox is very straightforward to propagate from cuttings, especially in May when the base of the plant is full of strong, clean shoots.

Take basal cuttings around 6–8 cm long. These lower shoots are sturdier than the top growth and root more reliably. Remove the lower leaves and keep the top growth compact.

Insert into a well-draining mix and firm gently so the cuttings don’t move. Stability helps them root faster.

Water lightly and keep the compost evenly moist. Letting it dry out completely will slow things down, but constant wetness can cause problems.

Keep the cuttings in bright shade with good airflow. That balance is important—too humid and still, and they can damp off.

Rooting usually takes two to three weeks. Once new leaves start forming, they’ve established. At that point, you can pot them on or let them grow a little more before planting out. They settle quickly and make strong plants within the same season.

2: Perennial Cornflower / Knapweed (Centaurea)

Those thistle-like purple or white flowers that bees go straight to are easy enough to recognize—but if you want more of the same plant, take cuttings from the crown, not seed. That way you keep the exact form and habit.

In May, look for new shoots coming up from the base. Aim for pieces around 8 cm long. The right stem feels firm at the bottom but still bends slightly at the tip. If it snaps clean, it’s already too woody. If it flops over, it’s too soft and likely to rot.

Remove the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the stem and insert the cutting into a sharply draining mix—something like 60% coarse sand or perlite with 40% compost. The key here is drainage. Centaurea doesn’t tolerate sitting wet at this stage.

Instead of watering from above, set the pot in a tray of water for a few minutes, then let it drain fully. This keeps the compost evenly moist without soaking the stem.

Place the cuttings in bright shade with good air movement. Still, humid conditions tend to cause problems, so it’s better to keep things fresh and open rather than sealed.

Roots usually form in about 2 to 3 weeks. Rather than pulling on the cuttings, watch for new growth at the tip—that’s the first reliable sign they’ve taken. Once rooted, harden them off gradually before planting out.

3: Garden Mums (Chrysanthemums)

Garden mums respond quickly to cuttings, and May is one of the easiest times to make more of them. By now, plants are pushing out fresh shoots from the base, and these root far better than anything taken later in the season.

Choose non-flowering shoots about 5–7 cm long. They should feel soft but not weak, with a bit of firmness at the base. Cut just below a node and remove the lower leaves, keeping a small cluster at the top.

Set them into a light, free-draining mix—something simple with added perlite works well. They don’t need anything complicated. Water lightly, just enough to settle the compost.

Keep the cuttings in bright shade and moderate humidity. Too much moisture, especially without airflow, can cause rot. Lift any cover daily so fresh air can move through.

They usually root quickly—often within 10 to 14 days. You’ll notice fresh growth at the tip once they’ve taken. After that, they begin to fill out fast. Pinching the tips early helps create fuller, bushier plants, which means better flowering later on.

4: Lavender (Lavandula)

I still remember the first time I tried to propagate lavender from a cutting; the scent of the fresh stems seemed to promise a whole new hedge of purple spikes. The trick is to wait until early spring when the plant is putting out vigorous, non‑flowering side shoots—those are the softwood stems that root most eagerly.

I snip a 7‑10 cm length just below a leaf node, making sure the cutting is supple but not woody. Then I gently strip away the lower set of leaves, leaving a clean stem that won’t rot in the soil. A quick dip in a powdered rooting hormone gives the cut end a little boost, though I’ve found that even without it the cuttings often take if you keep the medium moist.

I plant the cutting in a gritty compost mix—think one part coarse sand or perlite to two parts peat‑free potting soil—because lavender despises soggy roots. After firming the soil around the base, I place the pot in a bright spot that gets morning light but is shaded from the harsh afternoon sun, and I mist the foliage lightly twice a day.

Within three to four weeks you’ll see tiny white roots peeking out at the base, and by midsummer the cutting will be ready to be hardened off and planted out in its permanent sunny spot, where it will reward you with fragrant blooms for years to come.

5: Mist Flower (Conoclinium coelestinum)

Also called blue mistflower, this is one of those late-season perennials that keeps pollinators going when everything else starts to fade. If you want more of it, May cuttings are simple—as long as you keep things on the dry side.

Take tip cuttings about 7–10 cm (3–4 inches) long. Choose stems that feel firm but still flexible. When you bend them, there should be a bit of resistance—too soft and they collapse, too stiff and they’re already past it.

Strip the leaves from the lower two-thirds and insert the cutting into a gritty mix—around 60% sand or perlite, 40% compost. Good drainage matters more than anything here.

Water lightly after planting, then hold back. Only water again when the top layer starts to dry. These cuttings are prone to rot if they stay constantly damp.

Keep them in bright shade with steady airflow. A north-facing window, shaded bench, or under light shade cloth works well. Avoid closed, humid setups—mistflower can develop mildew quickly if the air doesn’t move.

Roots usually show in 10–14 days. If you’re using a clear pot, you may even see them along the sides, but new growth at the tip is the more reliable sign. Once established, they grow steadily. Pinch the tip when plants reach around 10 cm (4 inches) to encourage branching—you’ll get a fuller plant with more flower heads later.

6: Yarrow (Achillea)

That feathery foliage and flat-topped bloom you love? The outer edge of the clump is where you’ll find the most vigorous, disease-free shoots—inner growth tends to be woodier and less productive. Snip those 5-8cm lengths where the stem feels supple but resists a sharp bend (semi-ripe), ideally before flower buds form to direct energy into roots.

Strip leaves from the bottom half, then plant vertically in a mix that’s extra gritty—70% coarse sand or pumice, 30% peat-free compost. Yarrow cuttings rot in richness; they thrive in near-dessert conditions. Water only after planting to settle the soil, then let it dry almost completely between light moistening. You’ll see resistance when tugging in 2-3 weeks—don’t check daily, as yarrow’s early roots are brittle.

Once rooted, harden off aggressively; yarrow loves full sun and wind. Plant it where it bakes—by July, it’ll be a drought-proof magnet for ladybugs and hoverflies, its silvery foliage contrasting beautifully with darker-leaved neighbors like salvia or coneflower. 

7: Sneezeweed (Helenium)

Helenium’s daisy-like flowers in burnt orange, deep red, or golden yellow light up the border from July through September, but named cultivars like ‘Moerheim Beauty’ or ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’ don’t come true from seed.

For the best cuttings, hunt for fresh green shoots at the very base of the plant—where new growth is firm enough to snap cleanly when bent (not woody, not limp). Ideal length: 5-7cm. Strip leaves from the bottom half, then insert the cutting vertically into a moist but free-draining mix (50% perlite, 50% peat-free compost).

Helenium cuttings appreciate a light hormone dip but root readily without it if kept consistently damp (not soggy) and in bright shade. Roots typically show in 14-21 days; you’ll feel resistance when tugging or see new growth pushing from the crown.

Once hardened off, plant Helenium in full sun to part shade where it’ll thrive in moist soil—perfect for rain garden edges or beside a dripping spigot. 

8: Catmint (Nepeta)

Catmint’s tendency to flop open in summer makes early May cuttings gold—you’re capturing growth before it gets leggy and weak. Hunt for those 5-8cm basal shoots where leaves are small and tightly packed (indicating the plant isn’t yet putting energy into sprawling stems).

If you see long internodes or floppy growth, skip it—take cuttings only from tight, vigorous sections at the very base. Strip lower leaves, then plant in a moist but well-draining mix (50% perlite, 50% compost). Nepeta roots readily without hormone, though a light dusting won’t hurt in chilly soils.

Keep it in bright shade—direct May sun wilts the soft stems fast—and the medium like a wrung-out sponge. You’ll see new growth in 10-14 days, a surer sign of rooting than tugging (which can break Nepeta’s delicate filaments).

Here’s the pro tip: trim the parent plant hard right after taking cuttings—it encourages a second, tighter bloom cycle and gives you more cutting material later. Once rooted, Nepeta transplants easily; plant it in full sun where it’ll form a low, bee-humming mound by June.

9: Bee Balm (Monarda)

Monarda’s shaggy, fragrant blooms in pink, purple, or red are hummingbird heaven, but its tendency to spread aggressively and get powdery mildew means propagating from non-flowering shoots in May is smart—it gives you compact, vigorous plants that bloom sooner and lets you select mildew-resistant strains.

Take 5-8cm lengths from the base where growth is soft, pliable, and showing zero flower buds (this directs all energy to root formation).

Strip lower leaves, leaving just a tip tuft, then plant vertically in a standard moist mix (50% perlite, 50% compost). Monarda roots explosively—often in 7-10 days—and loves high humidity (tent with a clear bag, opened daily for air exchange). Keep the medium evenly damp and the cutting in bright shade. You’ll know it’s rooted when new leaves unfurl at the tip. 

10: Tall Verbena (Verbena bonariensis)

This see-through, purple-topped perennial is a magnet for goldfinches and butterflies, but named forms (though less critical than with phlox) root more reliably than seedlings in variable soils.

For cuttings that establish fast, take 8-10cm lengths from stems where growth is soft and pliable but not hollow—ideal before the first flower flush directs energy upward. If buds are present, pinch them off; flowering stems root slower and less reliably.

Strip leaves from the bottom two-thirds, then insert vertically into a standard moist mix (50% perlite, 50% compost). Verbena bonariensis cuttings appreciate high humidity—tent with a clear bag opened daily for air exchange—but hate soggy crowns, so water from the bottom (tray method) only.

Keep in bright shade; you’ll see tiny white roots in 14-21 days, visible if using a clear pot. Once rooted, harden off slowly—Verbena bonariensis hates sudden sun shifts. Plant in full sun where its airy stems will weave through taller perennials like rudbeckia or echinacea by July, providing months of nectar for solitary bees and butterflies.

11: Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

Russian sage is one of those plants that tells you how to treat it—dry, open, and not overworked. If you keep that in mind, cuttings are straightforward.

In May, take young shoots from the base, about 6–8 cm long. You’re looking for stems that have a bit of strength at the bottom but still flex at the tip. Very soft growth tends to collapse; older, woody stems are slower to root.

Strip off the lower leaves and keep just a small cluster at the top. Use a sharply draining mix—something heavy on grit or perlite. This is important. If the compost holds too much moisture, the stems will rot before they root.

Water once to settle the cuttings, then ease back. Let the surface dry slightly between watering. It’s better to be a little dry than consistently wet.

Keep them in bright light with some protection from strong midday sun. Airflow matters as much as anything else—stagnant, humid conditions are where problems start.

Rooting usually takes around three weeks. Don’t pull them up to check. Wait for fresh growth at the tip—that’s the sign they’ve taken.

Once rooted, harden them off gradually and plant into full sun with well-drained soil.