Pruning Apple Trees in Winter – How & Why to Prune Your Trees When It’s Cold!

Pruning Apple Trees in Winter – How & Why to Prune Your Trees When It’s Cold!

I know, it’s cold outside, and it may even snow, so the will to garden is not at its peak. But in winter, you still have lots of things to do. For example? You must prune your apple trees! In fact, you can’t wait, because this is really the best time to do it, and to do it correctly too, if you want it to flower and fruit abundantly later in the season.

Each tree has its own pruning techniques, and apples are no exception. And there’s an ideal time for each, and, for Malus domestica, it is winter. Let’s find out why and how…

Winter: The Best Time to Prune Your Apple Tree!

Winter: The Best Time to Prune Your Apple Tree!

To be honest, you can give your apple tree a little tidying up in late fall, and if you are really late, you can stretch the pruning season till March, but the ideal time to do it is by far winter.

In fact, there are many advantages to what we gardeners call “dormant pruning”, i.e., in winter:

  • As the term says, your apple tree is dormant, so it won’t receive any stress or delays in growth.
  • You can also see all the branches very well, unlike when there are leaves on.
  • In winter, infections and diseases are not strong; they are fewer and weaker in the cold season, so, you don’t risk spreading them to other parts of your apple tree when pruning it.
  • Finally, you give time to your apple tree to grow flowers; they will soon open, usually between mid-March and mid-April.

Would your tree still grow flowers (to fruit) if you prune it later? Of course, but it would waste energy on branches that you then cut!

In my opinion, the ideal time to prune apple trees is late winter, because by this time, you can see all the damage to the branches caused by the bad season.

How to do it though? First, let’s see what you will need.

What You Need to Prune Apple Trees in Winter

What You Need to Prune Apple Trees in Winter

You will need a few tools to prune your apple tree in winter, but make sure they all have sharp blades and that you sterilize them before you start (and I suggest a few times during the operation).

  • Pruners to use on small branches.
  • A pruning saw for bigger and toucher branches.
  • Loppers, which are good for medium sized branches, and to reach far.
  • Disinfectant, to sterilize your blades, alcohol is perfectly fine.

That’s all you need, apart from warm clothing and if you wish, a pair of gloves. Let’s start then!

1: Study Your Apple Tree’s Shape Before Pruning It – It’s Easier in Winter

create exact like this but 2:3 ratio.

You should never prune a tree without looking at it carefully and studying its natural shape first, and apples are no exception, so:

  • Walk around your apple tree and observe it from all sides.
  • Go under the tree and look at all the branches from below, studying where they are going and where they are becoming too dense.

What you need to keep in mind is that you want to:

  • Respect the natural shape your apple tree is trying to take when you prune it.
  • Open up the center of the apple tree’s crown for ventilation.
  • Keep the tree balanced; so, if one side is overgrown, you will prune more on that side.

And now, step by step.

2: How to Cut an Apple Tree Branch

How to Cut an Apple Tree Branch

You must cut apple tree branches at the right place, especially with medium sized and big ones, otherwise, you will run the risk that infections find an access into the other branches or even the trunk.

Therefore, cut the branch just above the collar, which is that swelling at the base with which it attaches to a bigger branch or to the trunk itself. This will range from about 1 inch (2.5 cm) for small branches to about 4 inches for bigger branches.

Do not cut into the collar, and always give a clean, neat cut.

If you are not confident, cut above the collar, then give a neater cut at the right place. It’s easier when you don’t need to deal with the weight of a branch…

If you leave a stub (longer than the collar) or if you cut into the collar, you will leave an access for pathogens like fungi to get into the branch or trunk of your apple tree. So, this skill is very important indeed.

3: Focus on the Dry, Very Sick and Dead Branches of Your Apple Tree First

cut all the dry, very sick and dead branches of your apple tree

First of all, cut all the dry, very sick and dead branches of your apple tree. This will make seeing the healthy parts easier, and it will give you a better idea of where your Malus domestica wants to go, where it has grown too much, where it is really crowded etc.

After you do this, I strongly suggest you sterilize your blades after you have cut dead and sick branches, especially if rotting; otherwise, you’ll risk spreading infections to other parts of your apple tree.

4: Prune off Suckers and Water Sprouts (Root Suckers) from Your Apple Tree

Prune off Suckers and Water Sprouts (Root Suckers) from Your Apple Tree

Suckers and water sprouts, (or root suckers), will use up a lot of energy from your apple tree, but produce no fruits. They grow strong and tender(ish) and upright, so they are easy to identify.

  • Water sprouts grow at the base of your apple tree.
  • Suckers grow from the branches.

At this stage, you will be able to see your apple tree’s shape and branching quite easily.

5: Prune Crossing Branches and Overcrowded Parts

Prune Crossing Branches and Overcrowded Parts

Crossing branches are bad news for your apple tree; they will rub against each other and develop cuts and lesions. So, cut them off.

Look at where there are overcrowded branches, like when two grow directly on top of each other. Save the stronger ones, and cut the weaker ones.

By now, your apple tree should look fairly neat, but there’s still some pruning to do.

6: Open Up the Canopy of Your Apple Tree

Open Up the Canopy of Your Apple Tree

When pruning crossing branches, you will already have opened up the canopy of your apple tree. This is necessary for ventilation, and now you should also:

  • Cut other branches that make the center of the canopy of the apple tree overcrowded.
  • Focus on branches that point inward, rather than outward.

Next…

7: Keep Your Apple Tree in Shape Pruning Overgrown Branches

Apple Tree in Shape Pruning Overgrown Branches

Apple trees are fairly regular in growth, but some branches may just have become too long. In this case:

  • Prune the branch back, making sure you cut just before a secondary branch or shoot that points outward.
  • Favor branches that fork out at a small angle (you don’t want 90-degree angles!)
  • Favor branches or shoots on top of the branch you are cutting, not under.

Now, we have almost finished.

8: Cut Back Competing Leads of Your Apple Tree

Cut Back Competing Leads of Your Apple Tree

Especially with young trees, you may have more than one lead (or trunk); put simply, you should choose the stronger one and cut all the others back to the base.

But we haven’t quite fully finished yet!

9: Look Back at Your Work and How You Have Pruned Your Apple Tree

Look Back at Your Work and How You Have Pruned Your Apple Tree

Don’t walk away yet. Look at your apple tree from all sides and from under its crown; there may still be a few twigs you want to cut or the odd crossing branch you hadn’t noticed at first.

It’s a good idea to grow a sketch of where the branches are going, even a mental one; so study its new shape carefully; you will need it again next winter, when you will prune your apple tree again.

Then, after you have pruned your apple tree and double checked on it…

10: Remove All the Cut Wood and Branches from Your Apple Tree and Mulch

Remove All the Cut Wood and Branches from Your Apple Tree and Mulch

After you have pruned your apple tree, remove all the cut branches from the base. No, it won’t protect it from the cold. Sick parts may spread disease, and, in any case, decaying wood absorbs nitrogen from the soil, so, it will make it less fertile.

On the other hand, wood chips have gone past the decaying phase, so they are good mulch (but expensive); so, choose any type you like (straw etc.) and protect the soil at the base of your apple tree – and a good time to do it is just after pruning!

And finally…

11: Don’t Over-Prune Your Apple Tree

Don’t Over-Prune Your Apple Tree

I have a final pruning rule to leave you with: don’t cut more than 25% to 30% of your apple tree. If you do, you will weaken it and it won’t flower or fruit as well.

And a final tip as well: try to keep a balance of old and new growth when pruning your apple tree in the winter season.

Prune Your Apple Tree in Winter and Enjoy a Bumper Crop

So, now you know when and how to prune your apple tree (in winter), so it has time to focus its energy on producing flowers and fruits, put a jumper on, dress up warm, and start cutting!

Amber Noyes

Written By

Amber Noyes

Amber Noyes was born and raised in a suburban California town, San Mateo. She holds a master’s degree in horticulture from the University of California as well as a BS in Biology from the University of San Francisco. With experience working on an organic farm, water conservation research, farmers’ markets, and plant nursery, she understands what makes plants thrive and how we can better understand the connection between microclimate and plant health. When she’s not on the land, Amber loves informing people of new ideas/things related to gardening, especially organic gardening, houseplants, and growing plants in a small space.

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