If your house is anything like mine right now, you probably have a few Amaryllis plants sitting around that are looking a little bit sad. The stunning flowers we enjoyed all through December are fading, the stalks are getting floppy, and the whole plant just looks like it has seen better days.
It is exactly at this stage—when the show is over and the plant feels a bit awkward—that I hear the same question over and over: “What do I do with it now?” I totally understand why people ask. It isn’t dead, but it certainly isn’t pretty anymore, and it is so tempting to just look at that messy pot and think about tossing it in the compost pile.
However, keeping them alive and getting them to rebloom next year is actually way simpler than you might think.
Over time, I’ve learned after doing this many times: amaryllis isn’t finished after it blooms — it’s just switching jobs. And if you help it through that next phase, it really can bloom again, year after year. So instead of tossing that bulb aside, let me show you exactly how I care for mine after it’s done blooming—and how you can encourage yours to come back stronger and more beautiful the next time around.
Understanding the Amaryllis Growth Cycle
Before you do anything with your amaryllis after it blooms, it really helps to understand how this plant is wired to grow. Amaryllis follows a natural cycle every year, and once you understand that rhythm, caring for it makes a lot more sense.
The bloom phase is the part everyone notices. That’s when the bulb sends up thick stalks and those big, dramatic flowers open. What you don’t see is that all of that growth is powered by energy the bulb stored months earlier. By the time flowering is finished, the bulb has spent a huge portion of its reserves.
After blooming, the plant shifts into a recovery phase. This is when leaf growth becomes the priority. Those long, strap-like leaves aren’t there for looks — they’re doing essential work. They use light to produce energy through photosynthesis and send it back down into the bulb. This is how the bulb rebuilds itself and prepares for the next round of flowers.
Once the bulb has stored enough energy, it naturally wants to rest. That rest period, or dormancy, allows the bulb to reset and internally form the flower buds for the next bloom cycle. If the plant doesn’t get enough leaf growth or doesn’t get a proper rest, it may survive just fine but fail to flower.
The key to getting amaryllis to bloom again is working with this cycle instead of fighting it. When you support each phase at the right time — bloom, leaf growth, and rest — the plant stays healthy and becomes much more reliable year after year.
What to Do With Your Amaryllis After Flowering to Make It Bloom Again
Step 1: Cutting Off the Flowering Stalk After Bloom
Once your amaryllis is finished blooming and those big flowers start looking tired and wilted, this is your cue to step in. The very first thing I do is remove the flowering stalk. I grab a pair of clean, sharp pruners and cut that stalk down as close to the top of the bulb as I can, being careful not to nick any leaves that might already be growing.
And if you do see leaves at this stage, that’s actually really exciting. That tells you the bulb is already shifting gears and starting its recovery process. Those leaves are going to be incredibly important moving forward, so seeing them early is always a good sign in my book.
The reason I don’t leave the flower stalk on any longer than necessary is simple: energy management. If the plant is allowed to form a seed pod, it will pour a huge amount of energy into that process — energy that should be going back into the bulb instead. Seed production can drain a surprising amount of stored reserves, and that directly affects next year’s flowers. So cutting off the spent stalk isn’t just about tidying things up. It’s about telling the plant, “Okay, bloom time is over — now let’s rebuild.”
Step 2: Give It Light and Water Only When Needed
After the stalk is gone, everything is about encouraging leaf growth. I move the pot to a bright spot, ideally near a sunny window where it can get several hours of light each day.
Watering is simple but important. I wait until the top inch of soil feels dry, then water thoroughly and let it drain. The soil should stay lightly moist, never soggy. Too much water at this stage can cause problems, especially since amaryllis bulbs don’t like sitting in wet soil.
As long as the plant has light and proper watering, leaves will begin to grow. Those leaves act like solar panels, capturing light and sending energy back into the bulb. Strong leaf growth now is what sets the stage for good blooms later.
Step 3: Move the Plant Outside When Temperatures Warm
Once the weather warms up and nights are consistently mild, I move my amaryllis outside. Here in Zone 7, that’s usually late April or early May, but timing will vary depending on where you live.
When I move it outdoors, I keep the care routine the same—watering when the soil dries out and giving it plenty of light. I don’t place it straight into intense sun, though. I start it in bright shade or filtered light for a few days, then gradually move it into a sunnier spot.
That gradual transition helps prevent leaf scorch and allows the plant to adjust. Once it’s settled outside, the increase in natural light usually leads to stronger, sturdier leaves, which is exactly what the bulb needs to rebloom successfully.
Step 4: Fertilize Regularly and Let the Leaves Grow
Once the amaryllis is outside and growing actively, I start fertilizing it every three to four weeks. I like using a bulb fertilizer or a balanced formula that isn’t too high in nitrogen. The goal here isn’t lush foliage for looks, but feeding the bulb so it can store energy for future blooms.
During this time, I let the leaves grow freely. I don’t cut them back at all, even if they start to look a little unruly. Every leaf is working for the bulb, capturing sunlight and converting it into stored energy. By late summer, a healthy amaryllis usually has a full fountain of thick leaves, often well over a foot tall. That’s the sign the bulb has fully recharged and is ready to rest.
Step 5: Take the Bulb Out of the Soil When Cold Weather Arrives
As temperatures begin to cool — around October here in Zone 7 — I stop watering and let the foliage yellow naturally. After a couple of weeks, once the leaves have done their job, I remove the bulb from the pot, cut the leaves back close to the neck, and gently shake off the soil.
I then wrap the bulb in a paper bag or a breathable produce bag, like the kind potatoes or citrus come in. This keeps the bulb protected while still allowing airflow, which is important for preventing rot during storage.
Step 6: Store the Bulb in a Cool, Dark Place
After wrapping, I place the bulb somewhere cool and dark, like a basement, cellar, or garage. I aim for temperatures around fifty to fifty-five degrees. If there’s any light in the space, I tuck the bulbs into a cardboard box so they stay completely dark.
During this rest period, the bulbs get no water and no light. This dormancy is essential. It allows the bulb to reset and begin forming next season’s flower buds, which is why skipping or shortening this step often leads to leaves without blooms.
Step 7: Let the Bulbs Rest for Two to Three Months
The bulbs do need a rest period, and while they can get by with about a month, I’ve had much better luck giving them a full two to three months. That longer rest almost always leads to stronger, more reliable blooms. If I put my bulbs away in October, I usually bring them back out sometime in December, which tends to produce flowers in late winter or early spring.
If you’re hoping for holiday blooms, timing becomes trickier. You’ll need to store the bulbs by October and bring them out by late November or early December, and even then, bloom timing isn’t guaranteed. Some bulbs wake up quickly, while others take their time. Amaryllis doesn’t follow a strict calendar, so patience is part of the process.
Step 8: Cleaning Up the Roots After Dormancy
After the bulbs have rested for at least two months, I take them out of storage and give them a good look. Any roots that are dry, brown, or crinkly get trimmed off, since they’re no longer doing anything useful. Roots that are white and fleshy stay — those are still alive and will help the bulb get reestablished quickly.
This quick cleanup also gives me a chance to check the bulb itself. A healthy bulb should feel firm. If I notice any soft spots, I carefully trim them away before planting.
Step 9: Replanting With the Top Third of the Bulb Exposed
When it’s time to replant, I use a pot with good drainage and a well-draining potting mix. I make sure the top third of the bulb stays above the soil line. Planting too deeply is one of the easiest ways to cause rot, especially around the neck where new growth emerges.
After planting, I water thoroughly once to settle the soil, making sure excess water drains away completely. From there, I keep the soil just lightly moist until I see new growth. Good drainage is absolutely essential at this stage — amaryllis bulbs prefer to dry slightly between waterings rather than sit in wet soil.
Step 10: Put the Pot Somewhere Bright and Warm, Then Be Patient
Once the bulb is planted, I move the pot to a bright spot and, if possible, somewhere a little warm. A sunny window is perfect. Extra warmth from below can help too. I have a strip of heated tile near one of my doors, and I like setting plants there during winter because that gentle bottom warmth seems to wake bulbs up a bit faster.
From here on out, patience is key. Sometimes nothing seems to happen for a couple of weeks, and that’s completely normal. Even when the top of the bulb looks quiet, roots are growing below the surface and buds are forming inside. I keep the soil lightly moist and resist the urge to fuss with it.
Step 11: Let It Grow — Even If It Doesn’t Bloom Right Away
Eventually, you’ll start to see growth. Sometimes leaves appear first. Other times, a thick flower stalk pushes up before any leaves show at all. Both are normal, and neither one means you’ve done anything wrong.
That said, not every bulb blooms the first year. I’ve had plenty that only produced leaves the first time around. When that happens, I don’t give up. I let the plant grow all summer outside, allow it to build as much leaf growth as possible, and then repeat the dormancy process in fall. More often than not, it’s that second or third cycle when the bulb finally has enough stored energy to bloom again.
Step 12: Enjoy Years of Free Amaryllis Blooms
If you stick with the process, the payoff is worth it. Over time, the bulbs grow larger, produce stronger flower stalks, and often bloom more reliably each winter. Some even develop offsets, giving you brand-new plants from the original bulb.
There’s something incredibly satisfying about seeing those big, dramatic flowers return — especially knowing that most people would have tossed the bulb months earlier. With a little seasonal care and patience, that one holiday amaryllis can turn into years of beautiful, completely free blooms.
Special Considerations for Waxed Amaryllis Bulbs
Waxed amaryllis bulbs are a little different, so it helps to go into this part with realistic expectations. Those brightly colored, wax-dipped bulbs you see around the holidays are designed to bloom without soil or water, which makes them easy gifts—but it also means the bulb is living entirely off its own stored energy.
Because the wax seals everything in, the bulb can’t grow new roots while it’s blooming. By the time the flowers fade, the bulb is often smaller and more tired than a normally potted one. That’s why most people assume they’re one-and-done. The good news is that if you act quickly, some of them can be saved.
As soon as the flowers are finished, carefully peel away the wax. You’ll usually find a little wire stand or some plastic underneath, and that all needs to come off. What you’re really checking for is the base of the bulb. If that area is still intact, there’s a chance.
I like to soak the bottom of the bulb in lukewarm water for about an hour to help it rehydrate, then plant it halfway in well-draining soil and treat it just like a regular amaryllis that’s going into leaf growth.
One thing to keep in mind is that waxed bulbs have been through a lot. They usually don’t rebloom right away, and that’s normal. It can take a full season—or even two—of leaf growth before they have enough energy to flower again. Think of it as a rescue project. With patience and good care, some of them really do surprise you.
Written By
Amber Noyes
Amber Noyes was born and raised in a suburban California town, San Mateo. She holds a master’s degree in horticulture from the University of California as well as a BS in Biology from the University of San Francisco. With experience working on an organic farm, water conservation research, farmers’ markets, and plant nursery, she understands what makes plants thrive and how we can better understand the connection between microclimate and plant health. When she’s not on the land, Amber loves informing people of new ideas/things related to gardening, especially organic gardening, houseplants, and growing plants in a small space.