Take Cuttings of These 10 Plants in July and You’ll Have Dozens of Free Plants by Next Season

“July is far too hot to propagate plants from cuttings!” Well, for some varieties it is, but not all of them, in fact, for some of our flowering friends it is actually a good month to get more “little ones” for free!

I love cuttings, and it’s not just because my father grew virtually all his garden by snipping off twigs here and there… But it’s part of it.

Cuttings are cheap, usually free altogether, and they give you an exact copy of the original plant—same flowers, same strength, same everything, unlike seeds. They also have a high success rate; it depends on the plant variety and on the gardener, of course, but it goes from 50% to 80% on average, with peaks of 100% with species like Coleus, Fuchsia and Pelargonium.

So, you need 2 to 3 cuttings to make sure that you get a free clone (literally) of the plant you so want in your garden, even if you are not an expert.

Not All Cuttings Are the Same, and Understanding the Difference Makes All the Difference

To start with the rudiments, there are different types of cuttings, depending on the type of “wood” you take from the mother plant and the medium you use to get the “baby” to root. Softwood means that you cut off really new, fresh growth, the very tips of branches. Semi-hardwood means that you cut the stem where it has become firm, and it is starting to change color. Hardwood means that you cut a branch or stem that has already become mature (usually brown) and you pick them when the plant is dormant.

In July, you will find very few dormant plants, so, your cutting in this season will be from semi-softwood and softwood.

And this means that you will use a similar way to propagate cuttings, unlike hardwood ones, we’ll see it next. Of course, the mediums can be soil (peat moss, coco-coir etc.) or water. I’ll tell you which is best for each plant.

“Is there a difference between how I propagate softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings?” The answer is “Only little differences.” In fact, with both softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings you take the end of the stem and you leave the tips on. With softwood cuttings, you strip off almost all the leaves, and you only leave the top ones, as softwood cuttings need high humidity.

With semi-hardwood cuttings you can leave more leaves, as they are stronger; still, strip off most of them, since semi-hardwood cuttings can manage drier conditions. Semi-hardwood cuttings also benefit from “wounding”: use a sharp, sterile grafting knife and peel off the bottom inch (2.5 cm ca.) of bark, to reveal the inner parts, so they are free to root.

“Do I have to use rooting hormones?” It’s not compulsory, but they do help a lot. You can use standard rooting hormones, or natural products you most likely have in your kitchen cupboard, like apple cider vinegar or cinnamon powder.

Softwood cuttings need a bit more encouragement. You can dilute a tiny bit in the water where they root as well, but very little! I put a small piece of willow bark in it, leave it there for 15-20 minutes and then remove it. You can add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or any rooting hormones.

And now, let’s find out the top 10 plants you can still successfully propagate in hot July!

1.Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)

Surprised? True, hydrangeas don’t like the heat, on the other hand they grow vigorous new shoots in June, and they are perfect for cuttings in July!

Pick a non-flowering new shoot; it needs to be softwood, green and full of energy. It should be 4 to 6 inches long (10 to 15 cm). The problem is really that hydrangea has massive leaves, and they lose moisture in the heat. So, only save the top 2 leaflets, even cut half of them off if they are too big already.

Do dip the bottom of the stem in your rooting agent and use water; they don’t do well in soil. Put your cuttings in a place which has bright light, but filtered, away from windows, glass panes and direct Sun.

Keep the environment humid; you can vaporize your cuttings regularly, or use the simple transparent plastic bag with holes…

2. Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

Maybe lavender is not such a surprise, because this super fragrant shrub loves hot and dry conditions. What you may not know is that while it may appear to be “taking a break” in July, it is in reality growing new shoots, slowly as she does, being the most relaxing and relaxed plant on Planet Earth…

These may even bloom later in the season, they usually do in Mediterranean regions – never seen one fail.

But at this stage, they are perfect for cuttings.

You will need semi-hardwood stems, about 3 to 4 inches long (7.5 to 10 cm). Only keep the very top little tuft of leaves (3 to 5, they are tiny and they don’t evaporate too much). I highly advise wounding, because its bark gets really tough and really quickly. Then use a slightly acidic (6.5 pH ca.) medium, or potting mix, which must be absolutely well drained, at least 1/3 coarse sand.

Choose a well-ventilated, dry spot in filtered light, and do not use the “plastic bag” system or a growing dome; lavender doesn’t like humidity, in fact, if you try to grow it by cuttings in water, it may rot…

3. Geranium (Pelargonium spp.)

Sun-loving, drought tolerant and pretty tough, geraniums like to slow down at the peak of summer as well, and this is a good time to take cuttings if you want to fill your pots and containers with them. And their rooting rate is between 75% and 90%!

Treat it a bit like lavender; it needs a dry, well-ventilated sport with bright and indirect Sun. No plastic bags or domes, and a well-drained potting mix.

However, you will need softwood cuttings, only 3 to 4 inches long (7.5 to 12 cm), and you must only keep 2 to 3 top leaves (use your judgement, depending on their size).

But don’t plant it immediately, dip it in your rooting hormone or product and then leave the cutting to form a callus on the wound for half a day, or it risks rotting. That’s all you need to do!

4. Coleus (Coleus scutellarioides)

You wouldn’t think that small, delicate-looking leafy coleus with all its super-colorful soft foliage and tender stems would grow well from cuttings, would you? Instead, it is very easy to propagate it this way and it really punches above its weight, because its success rate reaches 100%!

You will need softwood cuttings between 4 to 6 inches long (10 to 15 cm). Peel off all the leaves apart from the top 2 to 4. Dip it in a rooting product, and it does well in both water and soil. The usual sunlight requirements apply (filtered but bright).

A growing dome or / and vaporized water will help along very well, as coleus needs humidity and its leaves lose a lot of water.

In case it has flowers, remove them.

But I have a final extra tip to fill your garden, balcony or home with colorful coleus leaves… If you can keep the water lukewarm, at about 70° Fahrenheit (or 20° C), it will root even faster.

5. Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.)

Here’s another unexpected flowering beauty you can propagate in July: fuchsia! The only problem is it may still be in bloom, depending on your variety; still, it tends to slow down when the weather is very hot.

What you must do is find some stems with now flower buds (and showing “no intention” of growing them yet; I mean, not even “protobuds”). Alternatively, pinch them off. It shouldn’t be difficult because fuchsias have abundant fresh shoots and…

…In fact you will need a softwood cutting, 3 to 5 inches long (7.5 to 12 cm), with only 2 to 3 pairs of leaves (pairs!) on top. Then, do the usual, dip it in a rooting agent, and you can pick soil or water to put it.

Place them in a well ventilated filtered light position and… I wouldn’t use bags or domes with fuchsias, they need fresh air. On the other hand, your cuttings will appreciate some sprayed water to freshen up from the heat.

6. Weigela (Weigela florida)

 Weigelia is yet another very vigorous shrub that you can easily propagate by cuttings. By July, it will have finished flowering, and summer is an ideal time to snip it up and get more plants from one.

Why? The new shoots that started in spring are now ripe enough for semi-hardwood cuttings. They need to be 4 to 6 inches long (10 to 15 cm) with 2 to 4 leaves at the top.

The success rate with weigelia is not very high though, between 50% and 70% of new plants from cuttings. For this reason, I strongly suggest that you use rooting agents with them, and you always plant more than you need. In case you can gift them to a neighbor.

You will need to propagate weigelia cuttings in well drained, fertile potting soil (ideally specific for seedlings), and place it in bright indirect light and in a well-ventilated position. I’d avoid bags and domes etc., but do vaporize it regularly in the evenings.

7. Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii)

I can see your smile from here – yes butterfly bush will propagate from softwood cuttings in the mid of summer! Associated with Monarchs, this fast-growing shrublet is very strong, packed with energy, so it sets roots very willingly from young and lively shoots.

You will need 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of softwood stem, with 2 to 3 leaves left on top, a neat cut at the bottom, then follow the usual procedure; rooting agent, fertile potting soil, a safe position with bright filtered light and yes, I would use a bag or grow dome, or at least spray it with water frequently.

8. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis)

Despite its tough look, rosemary is not too easy to propagate. Maybe it’s because we see its hard, dark-brown and woody branches and we think that they will make good cuttings. But no!

I know it is counter-intuitive, but you will need softwood cuttings for new rosemary clones, and this fragrant shrub reaches the peak of its growth in late spring. This is why July is an excellent time to propagate it.

You will need 4 to 6 inches of the stem (10 to 14 cm) with a few leaves at the top, just a tiny tuft. But one impression we have of rosemary is fully right; it doesn’t like too much humidity. While the tiny leaflets prevent excessive evaporation, you will definitely need a very well-ventilated spot, brightly lit but not in direct light and fertile potting soil with excellent drainage.

No growing domes or bags allowed, you should also allow the cut at the bottom to dry up for half a day after you dip it in your rooting agent.

And I do suggest you use one, because rosemary can be capricious when it comes to growing new roots from stems. In fact, I suggest you plant twice as many cuttings as you need.

9. Spirea (Spiraea spp.)

For a generous flowering small shrub to propagate by cuttings in July, spirea is a good choice. “But mine is still flowering!” I bet it is, and it will continue till fall, even if its biggest wave is in spring.

But don’t worry, your spirea (or your neighbors) will also be growing lots of new, fresh and energetic shoots. Find a softwood stem with no flower buds, cut it to 4 to 6 inches long (10 to 15 cm) and spare 3 to 4 leaves at the tip.

Get some good, fertile and well drained potting soil and, after the usual rooting agent dipping, plant your cutting.

Bright indirect light as for all cuttings but spirea needs humidity, so, do use a pierced transparent plastic bag or propagation dome.

10. Camellia (Camellia japonica)

My last pick is a bit of a challenge for you; camellias are princesses and they behave as such. So, you can grow it from semi-hardwood cuttings, but always plant three or four for any new plant you want to get, because the success rate can be lowish (30% to 50%).

On the other hand, camellias can be quite expensive, and growing them from a shrub you already have in your garden means that the “baby” is already accustomed to your garden’s growing conditions, and, as you know, these wonders of Nature often find it hard to settle in…

You can get lots of “exchange points” with your neighbors if you grow a few camellias to “planting size”! July is a good month to propagate them though, because the new shoots are starting to harden.

The cuttings should be 4 to 6 inches long (10 to 15 cm), and I would allow the cut to harden for a few hours before planting it. You will need only 2 to 3 leaves on top, and keep an eye on them, because this lady of winter gardens can take a few months to root!

So, as long as the leaves are healthy, it means your camellia is still alive, just taking her time…

The absolute “must have” is a slightly acidic, very fertile and well drained potting mix (pH between 5.8 and 6.5).

You know by now that it needs bright indirect light, but remember that camellias also like high humidity, unlike other semi-hardwood cuttings. Rather than using propagation domes or bags, I suggest you vaporize it every night.

A Final Tip

My father used to take cuttings whenever he found a plant he wanted to propagate, but if you want to get the best results, the ideal time to take them is in the morning, when the stems are fresh from the night and full of water, and they haven’t “sweated” yet in the hot July Sun.